Saturday, February 3, 2007

Khandbari

Friday morning I woke up early and arranged my belongings because I could only take a portion of them to Khandbari. Then I got breakfast and waited in the hotel lobby to be picked up to go to the airport. After a few phone calls I was eventually picked up at 10:15 for my 11:20 flight. I made it to the airport and without too much trouble got my bag checked, paid the airport tax, and made my way to the departure area. Unfortunately, the screens announcing departures were not working properly and I had no idea which of the 2 gates or when I would be departing for my flight. Apparently the "help desk" does not exist but an overhead voice announced in what appeared to be English that my flight was delayed until 14:00 or so I thought. I was sitting only somewhat anxiously chatting with a Tibetian monk and writing in my journal around 12:45 when I by chance heard someone at one of the gates yelling "Tumlingar" which is where I was headed so purely by luck I made it to my flight.
 
My anxiety was peaked when I boarded the bus to take me to the plane. The bus didn't look like it should run and sounded like it might no run for much longer. The flight was rather uneventful. The plane seated about 20 people and had great views of the mountains despite it being a bit overcast. We landed at the Tumlingar airport which is a grass strip on a plateu with the Arun river on one side and the mountain on the other. I was met by Umpendra who I initially thought was just a boy sent to pick me up but it turns out he is my cook and 22 year old. He and his wife Bimala are staying with me above the clinic.
 
The journey from Tumlingar to Khandbari was interesting. I had initially planned on hiking but since it has been dry the road is "good" and passable by 4wd vehicles.Our vehicle was a large jeep. It started off with 15 of us inside and one person on the roof with the luggage. Later, after one of many times the vehicle stalled Umpendra got traded out for a stereo that the couple sitting across from me was transporting. After multiple stalls that resulting in having to push the jeep backwards down the mountain in order to restart and one tire change we made it up to Khandbari. The people in the jeep were nice. A very pleasant couple and their stereo sat across from me. A tiny woman sitting to my right kept dozing off clutching her backpack in front of her and leaning on my shoulder. Near Khandbari we picked up an old man who I suspect was intoxicated. He provided entertainment for everyone as he crouched between the stereo and the dozing woman and attempted to communicate with me. All in all it was a successful trip and I'm glad I didn't have to hoof it. The people are very pleasant with good faces and a mix of modern and traditional attire.
 
Khandbari is on a ridge of the mountains and is a fairly large village. It is the capital for the region. There is a 15 bed district hospital where there is a docto whom I am going to work with a bit. He agreed to teach me in exchange for sharing what I know. In fact I must leave soon for evening rounds with him. We already saw all the patients this morning. I am staying in the upstairs of the clinic. There is no doctor but the assistant has been working there for 6 years and seems to be very good. Umpendra, his wife Bimala, and Ganga the clincs accountant all sleep on the same floor as I do. The views from both the front and back of our level are stunning. I enjoyed coffee on the back porch this morning with Ganga as the sun was rising. It was a bit overcast but still nice to be outside listening to the town awake looking at the misted mountains. Ok, back to the hospital now.


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2 comments:

Michelle said...

These are great stories... making me laugh. Just tell me you are taking pictures too. I can't wait. :-)

Kathleen Porter said...

Am enjoying reading about the people you are meeting and your wild adventures. Oh to be 25 again! Who said "whatever doesn't kill you makes you stronger"? You are one tough guy. Just wanted you to know you are in our thoughts and prayers. Enjoy.